Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.
“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.
Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.
Lina is a digital strategist with 10+ years in tech consulting, specializing in cloud solutions and cybersecurity.
Brad Henderson
Brad Henderson
Brad Henderson
Brad Henderson